Tutorial · Sewing

Patchworking tutorial: a DIY quilted bag.

Patchworking tutorial - DIY quilted bag

I work with big pieces of fabric for project bags, but in the process, I get a lot of offcuts. These pieces are too small on their own, but still very beautiful, dyed with colors I extract from plants. Plant-dyed colors are perfect for that — they complement each other perfectly and can make up endless combinations.

What you need

Start with fabric scraps in four to five complementary colors with good contrast. Avoid mixing lightweight and heavyweight fabrics. You'll need a sewing machine, iron, rotary cutter, scissors, ruler, and cutting mat. Create a paper pattern of your target size before beginning.

Gathering plant-dyed fabric scraps for patchwork

Trim the scraps

Unless you start with super neat offcuts, you will need to trim them. I always make sure both sides of the piece are parallel to each other. This makes planning and sewing easier. Orthogonal patterns are recommended for beginners over diagonal approaches.

Trimming scraps with parallel edges

Arrange the patches

Build small blocks incrementally, adding one piece at a time. When putting the blocks together, try to make sure no scraps of the same color lie next to each other. Never position more than three fabric edges together when working with heavyweight canvas, as this creates excessive bulk. Leave several centimeters around your pattern for seam allowance.

Arranging patches by color and size

Plan the sewing sequence

Roughly cut scraps with scissors, allowing extra length. Map out which pieces connect and in what order they'll be sewn together.

Planning the sewing sequence

Start with the smallest block

Begin with the smallest pieces, placing right sides together along the edges that will become seams.

Starting with the smallest block

Sew the pieces together

Sew around 0.5cm from the edge (0.25 inch). You don't have to backstitch your seams — they will be held by the consecutive seams.

Sewing patches together

Press the seams

Press seams flat and open after each stitching round. This crucial step prevents pattern distortion and maintains proper alignment for subsequent patches.

Pressing seams flat

Keep the pieces straight

Trim sewn sections to maintain straight edges after adding each scrap.

Trimming sewn sections straight

Always add one patch at a time

Place the new piece underneath, keeping previous seams facing upward to ensure they remain flat during stitching.

Adding one patch at a time

Keep extending the blocks

Continue adding pieces sequentially. Iron after each stitching round and trim before adding the next patch.

Extending the blocks with more patches

Many seams later

Complete all main blocks before connecting them together.

All main blocks complete

Connect the main blocks

Join blocks in the predetermined sequence: top middle and right corner first, then bottom block, finally the left block.

Connecting the main blocks

Finishing the patchwork

Press all seams flat one final time. They should lay smoothly without creating bulk on the front side.

Finishing the patchwork

Troubleshooting

If the piece is too narrow when checked against the pattern, add additional scraps in colors not yet used to extend it appropriately.

Troubleshooting a narrow piece

Cut to the pattern

Use tracing paper to position the pattern, placing seams away from edges before cutting to final dimensions.

Cutting patchwork to pattern

And done

Create a matching piece for the opposite side using the same color palette. Choose complementary fabric for the bag bottom and drawstring tunnel.

Completed patchwork panel

The finished bag

It is not only zero-waste but also vegan, and 100% natural. Materials include organic cotton canvas dyed with plants, unbleached linen lining, organic hemp webbing handles, organic cotton thread, and flax string drawstrings. An extension strap enables crossbody carrying.

Finished patchwork project bag
Stop-motion animation of the patchwork bag
Want to take it further?

Ebook 01

A Pocket Intro to Natural Dyeing

Fibers, dyes, and the logic of color from plants.

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Ebook 02

The Mordant Book

How mordants work, and how to get consistent results.

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Ebook 03

The Dye Garden Manual

Which plants to grow, and how to use them.

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